LBS Rant

[6ix]

#36628

What would you expect this to cost for my 7-year old Scott carbon hardtail with XT?

New rotors, pads and brake bleed?

Maybe $180?  Nope, try $281!!  Yeah, the complete bike is probably only worth $800 on Craigslist these days.

Granted, I haven’t purchased the tools nor learned how to bleed brakes but that price is bonkers.  I really want to support the local shops because when you need them, you need them.  The service prices are way too friggin’ high though.  I learned how to do all of my own wrenching up until hydraulic discs but I suppose i’ll need to learn that as well.  And cutting carbon steerer tubes.  I bet they’d charge $30 to do that alone.

OK, rant over. 

[Cosmic Kid]

#36629

That does seems excessive…..but considering your area, maybe not all that surprising. You’d think competition would keep prices low, but the whole area, and the sport specifically, is pretty affluent now, so….

Cutting a carbon steerer is the same as an alloy steerer….just get a blade designed to cut carbon. And wear a mask…..if you can find one. You don’t want to breathe in that carbon dust.

[79pmooney]

#36630

There was just a many page thread over on the other forum about how much better disc brakes were. The proponents poopoo’d the cost of maintenance. One regular there, a pro mechanic, said he’s not complaining; it was really good for his wallet.

Thanks 61x, you’re helping me stay caliper!

Edit: $180 bucks?  I’ve never paid that for an entire set and levers, never mind $100 more.

[longslowdistance]

#36631

I only have experience with mtb, where bleeding is actually pretty easy, especially with Shimano because they use mineral oil rather than corrosive DOT fluid. Takes me about 30 minutes total for both. Easier with the brakes removed. Rotors can be pricey.

[eurochien]

#36632

I’ve worked on both Shimano and Sram mountain bike disc brakes and the bleeding procedure is very easy with Shimano. It’s a bit more involved with Sram but if you get the right kit, follow the instructions (lots of good ones on YouTube) it demystifies the whole thing.

[6ix]

#36633

Took the bike out today for a nice ride with the freakin’ expensive new brakes and – surprise – felt like new! Worth $281? Not quite sure of that.

That will be the last time I pay for somebody to bleed my brakes though. Have to learn so will spend some of this forced alone time watching YouTube! Thankfully all my bikes are Shimano and I won’t have to mess with that nasty DOT stuff.

To Ben’s point though, things were a lot easier when installing and adjusting brakes came down to simple cables and brake pads. And this coming from an early adopter of Di2!

[smokey52]

#36634

Often, not just for cycling, but for carpentry and yard maintenance: Buy the tool and learn the technique. As a plus, an opportunity to learn from mistakes.

[smokey52]

#36635

My LBS is closed for COVID-19.

[Cosmic Kid]

#36636

So as I continue to struggle with getting my new components on the Canyon (just one fook-up after another), I just ordered a SHimano bleed kit. IL is now Shelter In Place so I am going to use this time to figure out how to do it myself.

Will finish taking the Ultegra stuff off my Canyon and putting it on my CX bike. The majority of the build should be fine….and then’ll tackle the discs. Worst case scenario is I do the Walk of Shame and bring it up to the shop and say “fix what I screwed up”.

[zootracer]

#36637

Think I”ll stick with rim brakes….

[6ix]

#36638

How is the grouppo switch coming along, CK? Did the bleed kit arrive? I really need to figure that part out so I won’t have to pay so much at the LBS.

And Zoot, I hear ya on rim brakes. My cross bike has hydro discs and the front continues to howl even after cleaning with pure alcohol multiple times. And its’ not even old. Rim brakes are infinitely easier to work with and offer a lot more forgiveness. I have yet to be in a situation where discs saved my butt.

[Orange Crush]

#36639

The cable engaged low budget shimano disc brakes on my commuter are by far the best performing brakes I’ve ever had. Super brake performance when needed and easy to modulate. I can ride on bumper of a car with those without any questions as to performance.

Next best brakes would be the ultegra calipers on my road bike.

The TRP disc brakes on my gravel bike never came close to either but low end shimano mechanicals I replaced them with are better. Curious about the new hydraulics I will get with upgrade of gravel bike. Apparently ultegra level since frame is still post mount and everything new is all flat mounted. Some of components for upgrade are stuck in a warehouse in California unfortunately.

[longslowdistance]

#36640

How about brake squeal? Do you have it with some systems but not others?

[Orange Crush]

#36641

The discs on my commuter have never squealed. Just a zing of grit stuck in brakes when going over wet trails.

The front TRP on the Diverge squealed like mad all the time. The cheaper shimano I have on there now is much better but still not perfect.

Cheaper seems to be better. Of course there’s a weight and ugliness penalty.

In retrospect the poor TRP performance was likely attributable to incompatibility with Tiagra brifters not providing sufficient lever to fully engage them. Setting the TRPs tighter however caused them to rub so was not a viable solution. I doubt a similar issue would play with hydraulics.

[longslowdistance]

#36642

I have the same issue the TRP, now I know it’s not just me.

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